By C.E., "Ed" Harris Updated and Revised 7-2-96
Four years ago I mixed my first "Ed's Red" or "ER" bore cleaner and
hundreds
of users have told me that they think this home-mixed cleaner is more
effective than commercial products. I urge you to mix some and
give it a
fair trial, compared to whatever you have been using. Competitive
shooters,
gun clubs and police departments who use a gallon or more of rifle
bore
cleaner annually can save by mixing their own, and they will give up
nothing
in safety or effectiveness.
This cleaner has an action very similar to standard military issue rifle
bore cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. Users report it is more effective
than
Hoppe's for removing plastic fouling in shotgun bores, or caked carbon
fouling in semi-automatic rifles or pistols, or in removing leading
in
revolvers. It is not as effective as Sweets 7.62, Hoppe's
Bench Rest Nine
or Shooter's Choice for fast removal of heavy copper fouling in rifle
bores.
However, because "ER" is more effective in removing caked carbon and
abrasive primer residues than other cleaners, metal fouling is greatly
reduced when "ER" is used on a continuing basis.
I originally came up with this mix because I am an active high power
rifle
competitive shooter and hand loading experimenter who uses a lot of
rifle
bore cleaner. I was not satisfied with the performance and high
price of
commercial products. I knew there was no technical reason why
an effective
firearm bore cleaner couldn't be mixed using common hardware store
ingredients. The result is inexpensive, effective, provides good
corrosion
protection and adequate residual lubrication so that routine "oiling"
after
cleaning is rarely necessary, except for long-term storage of over
1 year,
or harsh service environments, such as salt water exposure.
This formula is based on proven principles and incorporates two polar
and
two nonpolar solvents. It is adapted from the one in Hatcher's
Notebook for
"Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18," but substituting equivalent modern
materials. I had the help of an organic chemist in doing this
and we knew
there would be no "surprises." The original Hatcher formula called
for
equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil,
and
optionally 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin added per liter. Some
discussion
of the ingredients is helpful to understand the properties of the cleaner
and how it works.
Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene.
I
recommend "K1" kerosene of the type normally sold for use in indoor
space
heaters. Some users have reported successful substitution of
civilian
aviation grade kerosene such as Turbo-A. I am reluctant to "recommend"
substitution of aviation grade kerosene, because the effects upon firearm
components of the additives required in aviation fuels are unknown.
Some
"jet-fuels" are gasoline/kerosene blends and absolutely should not
be used,
because of their increased flammability.
An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron (II, IIe
or
III) automatic transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950 that most
ATF's were
sperm oil based, but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use
in
precision instruments. With the great demand for automatic transmission
autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce ATF
in the
quantity demanded, so the synthetic material became the basis for the
Dexron
fluids we know today. The additives in ATFs which include organometallic
antioxidants and surfactants, make it highly suitable for inclusion
in an
all-purpose cleaner-lubricant-preservative.
Hatcher's original Frankford Arsenal No. 18 formula used gum spirits
of
turpentine. Because turpentine is expensive today, and is also
highly
flammable, I chose not to use it. Safer and cheaper is "aliphatic
mineral
spirits," a petroleum based "safety solvent" used for thinning oil
based
paints and also widely used as an automotive parts cleaner. It
is commonly
sold under the names "odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent"
or
"Varsol".
Acetone is included in "ER" to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent
for caked powder residues. Because acetone is a highly volatile
organic
solvent, it is recommended that users leave it out if the cleaner will
be
used in enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation. The acetone
in ER
will evaporate, liberating volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the
atmosphere unless containers are kept tightly closed when not in use.
The
cleaner is still effective without the acetone, but it is not as
"fast-acting."
There isn't anything in Ed's Red which chemically dissolves copper fouling
in rifle bores, but it does a better job removing on carbon and primer
residue than anything else which is safe and commonly available.
Numerous
users have told me, that exclusive use of "ER" reduces copper deposits,
because it removes the old impacted powder fouling which is left by
other
cleaners, which reduces the abrasion and adhesion of jacket metal to
the
bore surface, leaving a cleaner surface condition which reduces subsequent
fouling. Experience seems to indicate that "ER" will actually
remove metal
fouling it if you let it "soak," so the surfactants will do the job,
though
you have to be patient.
Addition of the lanolin to ER bore cleaner mix is entirely optional.
The
cleaner works quite well and gives adequate corrosion protection and
lubrication for most users without it. Incorporating the lanolin
makes the
cleaner easier on the hands, and increases lubricity and film strength,
and
improves corrosion protection if weapons will be routinely exposed
to salt
air, water spray, industrial or urban corrosive atmospheres, or if
you
intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for long term storage of
over 1
year.
If you use other protective films for adverse use or long term storage
you
can leave the lanolin out and save about $8 per gallon. At current
retail
prices you can buy all the ingredients to mix ER, without the lanolin
for
about $10 per gallon. I urge you to mix some yourself.
I am confident it
will work as well for you as it does for me and hundreds of users who
got
the "recipe" on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, CAS #64741-49-9,
or may substitute
"Stoddard Solvent",
CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store.)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container.
NFPA approved
plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use HDPE,
which is
permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate. The
acetone in ER
will also attack HDPE, causing the container to collapse, making a
heck of a
mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components,
so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin
into the
mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions
against
fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing
the
lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it
is all
dissolved.
I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the
50-50
ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.
This can
be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix.
LABEL AND NECESSARY SAFETY WARNINGS:
RIFLE BORE CLEANER
CAUTION:
FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
Contents:
Aliphatic mineral spirits, kerosene, acetone, Dexron ATF
(paraffinic base mineral oil, organometallic anti-oxidants,
surfactants, petroleum distillates)
1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.
2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call
physician
immediately. In case of eye contact
immediately flush thoroughly
with water and call a physician. For
skin contact wash thoroughly.
3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing
vapors or spray mist.
It is a violation of Federal law to use this
product in a manner
inconsistent with its labelling. Reports
have associated repeated and
prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents
with permanent brain
and nervous system damage. If using
in closed armory vaults lacking
forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection
meeting NIOSH TC23C
or equivalent. Keep container tightly
closed when not in use.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING
"Ed's Red (ER)" Bore Cleaner:
1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear.
Cleaning is most
effective when done while the barrel is still
warm to the touch from
firing. Saturate a cotton patch with
bore cleaner, wrap or impale on
jag and push it through the bore from breech
to muzzle. The patch
should be a snug fit. Let the first
patch fall off and do not pull it
back into the bore.
2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore
from the
breech, this time scrubbing from the throat
area forward in 4-5"
strokes and gradually advancing until the
patch emerges out the muzzle.
Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the
bore cleaner soak will
improve its action.
3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns,
leaded
revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush
wet with bore cleaner may
be used to remove stubborn deposits.
This is unnecessary for smooth,
target-grade barrels in routine use.
4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore
to flush out
loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red.
Let the patch fall off the jag
without pulling it back into the bore.
If you are finished firing,
leaving the bore wet will protect it from
rust for 1 year under average
conditions.
5. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will
protect the
firearm from rust for up to two years.
For longer term storage I
recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene
substitute. "ER" will
readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.
6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing
the gun.
While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel
finishes, the acetone it
contains is harmful to most wood finishes).
7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the
bore and dry the
chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably
sized brush or jag.
First shot point of impact usually will not
be disturbed by Ed's Red if
the bore is cleaned as described.
8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red
is used
exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water
cleaning is unnecessary
after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate
primers. However, if bores
are not wiped between shots and shots and
are heavily caked from black
powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended
first to break up
heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning
should be followed by a
thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting
which could
result from residual moisture. It is
ALWAYS good practice to clean
TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate
primed ammunition, just
to make sure you get all the corrosive residue
out.
This "Recipe" is placed in the public domain, and may be freely distributed
provided that it is done so in its entirely with all current revisions,
instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that proper
attribution is given to the author.
In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed